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Bespoke Custom Mens Suit And Dress Shirt

bespoke tailors 

SHORT, SLIM MEN

Clothes should elongate and add shaped fullness

Jackets

  1. Shoulder can be higher and slightly broader.
  2. Torso should broaden the chest and shoulder and have slight waist suppression.
  3. Jacket length should be as short as possible, however, covering the buttocks without cutting the wearer in two.
  4. Single-breasted, three-button coats promote a longer line.
  5. Double-breasted coats should have a long roll and button below the natural waist.
  6. Lapel notches should be in the chest's upper range. Peaked lapels offer more height.
  7. Side vents or no vents.
  8. Flap pockets add more width to hip and balance better with the wider shoulder, but they are not as elongating as the simple besom pocket.
  9. Long sleeves make a short man look overcoated.
  10. Fabrics such as mill-finished worsteds and flannels; with patterning that emphasizes verticality such as: herringbones, medium spaces chalk or pinstripes, and windowpanes longer in the woof (vertical) than the weft (horizontal).

Trousers

  1. A matching trouser lengthens more than a contrasting one.
  2. Should be worn high on the waist and fuller on the hip to promote a longer leg line and to smooth the transition of jacket to trouser
  3. Trouser should break on shoe to extend the view from top to bottom.
  4. Cuffs (1 5/8") help to smooth the transition of the fuller trouser with the larger scale shoe.
  1. Striped dress shirt with non contrasting collars and cuffs.
  2. Spread collars, tab collars, long pointed pinned collars.
  3. Suspenders emphasize verticality.
  4. Striped, solid, understated neckwear knotted in four-in-hand style.
  5. Longer four-in-hand necktie can be tucked into trouser.
  6. Tonal handkerchief folded with point leaning outward.
  7. Welted-soled shoes add height and balance with the breadth of the shoulder.

SHORT, HEAVY MEN

Clothes should also elongate but work to de-emphasize breadth.

Jackets

  1. Straighter-cut coat
  2. Two-button single-breasted better than three-button or double-breasted.
  3. Besom pocket over flap.
  4. Side vent over on vents.
  5. Sleeves need to taper down to cuff, cannot be too wide at hand.
  6. Fabrics should be dark and smooth, such as fine worsteds.
  7. Dark solids, medium-width striping, and herringbones de-emphasize bulk.

Trousers

  1. Reverse pleat on trouser keeps front-flat while breaking the expanse of its width.
  2. as long a rise as comfortable, fit on natural waist not below protruding stomach.
  3. Cuffs assist the transition of the full-cut trouser to the larger-scaled shoe.

Accessories

  1. Long straight point collars.
  2. Solid ties; patterned ties; ties with stripes or prints with movement.
  3. Welt-sole shoes for a more substantial platform; no lightweight, dainty footwear.

TALL MEN

The taller the tree, the broader its branches, so the tall man needs fuller cut clothes for balance and style. The selections should de-emphasize length by breaking up the vertical lines.

Jackets

  1. Sloping shoulders of generous width.
  2. Coat should be cut on the longer side.
  3. Double-breasted model that buttons on waist, not below it, such as the 6/2 placement.
  4. Two-button single-breasted.
  5. Broader lapels, finishing in lower area of upper chest.
  6. Flap pockets and the additional ticket pocket help fragment verticality.
  7. The fabrics can be heavier in look, such as flannels and cheviots, and of larger scale in pattern, such as broad stripes, hound's-tooth checks, glen plaids, or squared-off windows panes.

Trousers

  1. Long rise, full cut with deep pleats.
  2. Leg with grntle taper.
  3. Cuffs (1 ") with definite break on shoe.

Accessories

  1. Full-cut shirts must show " of shirt cuff.
  2. White contrast collars and cuffs break up length.
  3. Amply proportioned spread collars.
  4. Broadly spaced, fine-lined stripes, tatters all check, windowpanes, and horizontal stripes.
  5. Belts break up length.
  6. Welt-soled shoes for more substantial foundation.

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