Finding the perfect men’s shirt is definitely not an easy task and can be a little overwhelming for anyone. The key is really understanding what works for you and what you need the shirt for. You can look in to things like the fit, the fabric, the collar, and so on to help you find your perfect shirt.
The Fit
Fit is king in a men’s shirt or so they say. It is the fundamental rule in men's style…in fact in all style. So always remember that if it doesn't fit you properly, it's surely not worth your money. That's a truth that generally applies to most clothing items and your dress shirt is no exception. A dress shirt that fits you perfectly is one that ensures comfort and freedom of movement, shows off your body in a flattering manner. But somehow this tends to be the main problem for men who try shopping for off the rack dress shirts. The reality is if you can afford it, you are always better off going for a bespoke dress shirt that's specifically meant for your body and hand tailored by a pro. You should also see which fit, fits you best. The slim fit for athletic guys who have a rather slim or non-muscular torso. The normal fit for men on the muscular or buff side. The loose fit mainly for those with a fuller torso. A few other things to check for in a dress shirt would be that the gap between the shirt collar and your neck should be big enough for two fingers to slide through. The shoulders of the shirt should end at the point where your shoulders meet your upper arms. Your Armholes should be high up so as not to limit the movement of your arms in the dress shirt. The sleeves shouldn't be too tight or too billowy – just firm enough to still allow for natural movement. The sleeve cuffs should end at the point where your palms meet your wrists. And most importantly, the men’s shirt should fit comfortably.
The Fabric
Do you know exactly what you'll be needing your shirt for, what the weather will be like, and the kind of setting you plan on wearing it to the most? When you have the answers to these questions, then you can easily think about the fabrics that are most appropriate for your custom dress shirt. For most men it is either they'll need something for the office and formal meetings and lunches in air-conditioned restaurants, or they might need something more athletic and on the sporty side more suitable for outdoor environments. Whatever the case is for you, it is definitely important that you're aware of the different fabric options available for you. Fine cotton is lightweight cotton that's woven in a way that provides good moisture and heat conduction. It feels quite smooth against your body and it easily takes space while being ironed. Cotton types such as Sea Island and Egyptian cotton are considered among the best raw material for dress shirts. Man-made fiber is another and this can come in the form of nylon, polyester and so on. It doesn't have the same desirable properties as cotton. But it does create shirts which are wrinkle-free, stain-resistant, and very affordable. Cotton chambray or linen – a more comfortable alternative for casual button downs or sports shirts. Standard Oxford or flannel are other good choices for casual shirts that you can wear out to the track or for lunch at the golf course.
The Collar
The right dress shirt collar isn't just supposed to be there for the sake of simple existence as a collar. It is actually there to frame your face, which means it has a key role in accentuating or downplaying your facial features. Spread collars are those were the points on the collar are spread out. This collar style can be dressed up or down and goes well with any fabric, color or pattern really. It's great for men with long or medium-shaped faces. A widespread collar is one were the points are pulled back even further than in a spread collar. It's compatible with fuller tie knots and looks elegant even when it's worn unbuttoned. The wing tip is the style that works on a tuxedo. It's the most formal among the collar types and is noted for having two “wings” at the front often tucked behind a bow tie. The classic collar aka the straight collar is a versatile style that you can wear to both casual and professional settings. It tends to elongate the face, making it best suited for men with fuller or rounder faces. The classic button-down collar is actually quite similar to the classic collar itself but with buttons on the collar tips. The buttons are used to keep the collar in place. It's the least formal and most casual among the collar styles. Last but certainly not least is the band collar, the band is a piece of fabric that's wrapped around your neck. It's never worn with a tie since it's quite casual. It stands up straight at the top of the shirt without the standard collar points and it looks great with a linen dress shirt.
The Placket
As sharp as you want your collar to appear, the structure of your shirt placket is just as crucial of a detail. The placket is basically the vertical strip of fabric at the edge of the left front panel. A good placket supports a good-looking collar. So make sure that the placket reinforces and retains the shape of the front side of your dress shirt. Your options here are the following: The standard placket front which is the most common type of placket in dress shirts. It's responsible for the symmetrical look of the front of your shirt. The fly front placket refers to a concealed shirt placket that has a flap on the front to hide the buttons beneath. This style is most appropriate for formal occasions where a tuxedo is required. No placket, this is an alternative option for those who'd rather sport a plain shirt front. The edge of the front side of the shirt is folded over to form a creased edge. This style gives the dress shirt a simpler look and is considered more formal than the standard placket.
The Cuffs
Don't underestimate the value of quality, well-designed cuffs. They might not catch other people's eyes immediately when the entire dress shirt can be seen. But when you've got a jacket over it…they can suddenly stick out like sore thumbs. You might want your dress shirt cuffs to extend about one inch past the sleeves of the jacket you'll wear as this is the right way to wear it. As for the cuff style itself, there a few you can choose from. Button cuffs are the most common style that can feature round, square or angled corners. They're meant to wrap around the wrist and be buttoned into place. Round button cuffs promote a more casual feel so they're normally partnered with a button-down collar. Barrel cuffs are a formal style where each cuff has 2-3 vertical buttons. Multiple buttons are generally recommended for taller men. The larger barrel length also provides a nice snug fit around your wrist. This helps create a sharper look for more formal settings such as work. French cuffs are just as stylish as they sound, these are twice the length of regular cuffs. They're designed to be folded back on themselves and sealed with cuff links. They've got a distinct look and are usually paired with a wing tip collar style or a formal shirt. Cufflinks must be used for these.
With the knowledge of just these basic dress shirt elements, shopping for the perfect custom shirt should be a lot easier for you. If you are still struggling to find a shirt that looks perfect on you, don’t be afraid to ask your tailor for some basic advice.