One of the most important elements when it comes to designing a custom suit to add to your wardrobe is how to zero in on a tailored suit that will suit your frame. Every body type is different and has its own unique qualities that need to be accentuated and/or downplayed. Possibly the greatest benefit to working with a custom tailor is that unlike an off the rack suit, you are able to address those concerns effectively during the design process.
Consider Your Height in the Process
A custom suit must fit appropriately when it comes to length. The length of the jacket is of the utmost of importance when it comes to the overall look of the tailored suit. Make it too long and it looks like it is either oversized or you look shorter than your height. Make it too short and it looks like our little brother's borrowed jacket or your body type looks overly longer than what it actually is. At the same time the length of the trouser will have an overall impact on the appearance of your height. If the trouser is too long, then you will appear shorter than you are. And vice versa. It is important also that the pants are not designed to be too short. If your custom pants are too short, that flaw becomes very obvious and will distract from your appearance overall. Shorter length of pants make the wearer look sloppy and careless! The next consideration in relation to height is the length of your sleeve. If your sleeve is too long, then your jacket will look sloppy and not custom made. Also, if the sleeve length is too short, then you will look unprofessional and the jacket will appear to be a smaller fit than it actually is.
Consider Your Frame in the Process
Working with a custom tailor on your bespoke suit is especially beneficial when it comes to addressing issues with regards to your frame. The cut and fit of a custom suit as well as certain choices when it comes to design elements can completely change a person's appearance. If you have a slight frame and you would like to add volume to your appearance there are specific design elements that you can incorporate to accomplish that. A looser fit will add ‘bulk' to your frame and make it look substantial. Or if you get a double breasted tailored suit done, this you will instantly add volume to your frame, giving you a wider/fuller appearance. On the other hand, if you have a larger frame and you are looking to minimize the appearance then choose a single breasted bespoke suit in a slimmer more curvaceous silhouette to accentuate the waist and therefore increase the appearance of leanness.
Consider the colors you choose for your suit
Color plays a very important role in what you look like in a tailored suit. If you are already portly, you want to look less so. If you are overly slim, you want to look more substantial. Color, apart from the style and silhouette, plays a very important role in accomplishing this. In general, darker colors are slimming, light colors are filling. So, if of a larger frame, a good tailor will guide you towards darker colors. The darker the more slimming. If you are very slim and slight in build, you need to gravitate towards lighter colors that will fill you out a bit. Extremely dark colors like black, charcoal or anthracite are very somber and formal and so must be chosen with care. Dark blue, dark grey, dark browns etc. are good dark options that are slimming yet not overly serious. In lighter colors, you have tans, olives, khakis, beige, medium dark blue, oxford grey, silver, light grey, ash and so on which are excellent choices for bespoke suits for the very slim body type.
Consider the style of the jacket itself
The style of jacket you select in your custom suit is as important in order to get the silhouette you desire. A Double breasted style adds volume to the body. A single breasted style removes volume from the body. The more buttons to close in a double breasted, the more voluptuous the jacket appears. The fewer buttons on a single breasted jacket, the more slimming it appears. Oh, and when there are fewer buttons in a single breasted jacket, the more of the gorge is visible (i.e. more tie is visible) and so it carries the eyes upwards which in turn has an elongating affect – thereby en-slimming the frame. The less tie is visible, the more ‘bulk' in the jacket and so the fuller it looks.
Consider the style of pants too!
When designing your bespoke suit, the style of the pants is also equally important. As a rule of thumb, cuffs take away from the length of pants. So, if you are vertically challenged, stay away from cuffs at the hem of the pants. Flat fronts are in general more slimming than pleated pants although pleated pants are infinitely more comfortable. For a slim person, this is a no brainer – flat fronts work well. But for the larger build, it becomes a question of priorities. Is look more important than comfort? Choose wisely and carefully here for once pleats are put in, they cannot be removed (except via massive and very expensive remake) and conversely once flat fronts are done, there is no way to put in pleats! After all, where will the fabric come from?
In conclusion, creating a custom suit is about making style decisions that will effectively highlight your best attributes while simultaneously camouflaging some of those little imperfections that you have always been so conscious about. During the design process you must work closely with your custom tailor in order to address the concerns that you have about your frame and your length. Listen to the tailor carefully and take his suggestions seriously. In the end, you will be glad you did. Let your custom suit do the initial work for you when you enter a room. When you craft the perfect style persona, it will open doors for you in both the business world and the personal world.