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My Custom Tailor How To Choose A Custom Suit Design

The basis behind any wardrobe selection is the purpose of the garment itself. Where you are going to wear the garment will help determine the features and characteristics necessary to consider the garment a style victory. The same can be said as you begin to choose the custom suit design that is right for you.

The shape

Start with the shape of the garment for your wardrobe selection. Shape is one of those qualities that will differ depending on your own personal shape in your custom suit design. A custom tailor will assist you in your effort to design a suit that is the most flattering option for your particular shape. If you are wearing the custom suit to a more formal occasion, then the silhouette needs to be tailored and form fitting. People will judge you based on your appearance, so your appearance should be flawless. The better the custom suit fits, the more appropriate it is for the occasion. A sloppy, ill-fitting suit can distract from some of the qualities that make you successful in a social setting. It is actually possible for an ill-fitting suit to hinder both your career and your personal life. People will fail to take you seriously if you are not dressed appropriately.

The fabric

The next element to consider when choosing the custom suit design that is most appropriate for you is the strength of the fabric that you choose. A quality fit cannot be outshined by a poor fabric choice. One of the first observations that a person makes about you pertains to the fabric content of your garment. A quality fabric says that you are a force to be reckoned with.

The color

Color is also an integral part of your custom suit design choice, and should fit your wardrobe selection easily. Colors like navy, black, and charcoal are staples when it comes to building your custom suit wardrobe. They are classic colors that will stand the test of time. In addition to choosing classic colors, you should also choose classic patterns in order to add variety to your wardrobe. The pinstripe is one of those patterns that is revisited season after season and should be one of your first choices when it comes to adding a pattern to your wardrobe. Once you have chosen a pinstripe, the next pattern that is a must have when it comes to custom suiting is the herringbone. Those two patterns can be worn year after year by simply changing the accessories that you pair with them in order to bring them in to the current season. Your wardrobe is one of those major investments that will help project you to the next level in terms of your career and personal life. If you look like an authority figure, then people will think of you in that light, and your custom suit is the first step in that direction. Choosing a suit with a great fit says that you are confident and knowledgeable in your position. Your custom suit will also say that you are ready to take on the next challenge in life.

Understand Measurements

Irrespective of how much you have spent on it, an ill-fitting suit in your wardrobe selection, be it too tight with a rather restrictive visual, or it is too big and looks unwieldy and stroppy, it will never look good. The correct fit can make or break a suit so do yourself a favor and think close to the shoulders, slim through the body and trousers but not too slim, well tapered with a break before the shoe every time you go in to fit a custom suit. If that doesn’t make sense, here are a few points on how the suit should fit in certain areas:

The shoulder pads of your custom suit should lie flat on your shoulders and not protrude beyond them. The seam of the shoulder should always be in line with the seam of the sleeve where your arm meets your shoulder. The closure of the jacket should fit closely around your stomach but not too tight to avoid the awkward gaping at the buttons. A fist’s worth of room should be between yourself and the jacket. The back of the jacket should always fall as comfortably as possible in a straight line with the bottom edge wrapping over the top of the arc formed by the backside but not any lower than your knuckles. It should certainly not flare at the back above the buttocks or fall past them and sag, if it does then the jacket is too big. The seat, also known as the buttocks, should not pull tight against your buttocks - you will notice horizontal strains under the buttocks if this is the case, or drape loosely down the backs of your thighs - at which point you will notice gathered material, if you see any of these, then the pants do not fit. The length of the sleeve should never fall any lower than the base of your thumb. In fact it should show about half an inch of the shirt beyond the jacket cuff, always. The trouser break refers to the point where your trousers touch your shoe. The cuff should rest on the top of your shoe but it shouldn’t do much more than that, trousers that are too long will look sloppy.


When it comes to buttons there are three classic style, the three button suit, the two button suit and the single button suit. The three button suit was quite popular in the 90s and is not generally found in modern suits today. The three button suit is known for its classic high button position which beautifully creates a higher ‘V’ on the chest, therefore it can sometimes look a bit suffocating, full and old-fashioned. It does occasionally work quite well with taller gentleman who do not really need the anticipated lengthening effect that the two or one button suits give to most people, as a matter of fact a three button suit can make really tall men look more symmetrical and well proportioned. The two button suit is next. It is ordinarily found in today’s modern everyday suits that create a deep ‘V’ and longer lapels than those made by a three button suit. This is usually more flattering on most men with the average square but short body type because is elegantly elongates the torso. The one button suit is the most cutting edge of the choices, creating a smooth and sleek classically modern look for the suit. This trendy style is certainly not for everyone and some of the more traditional men out there may view it as being a little too hipster for a formal look as it creates an even lower ‘V’  than the other suits, which doesn’t exactly suit everyone’s idea of style in formal fashion. A number of the popular slim fit suits are now using the one button on their jackets to reflect the modern twist on a traditional garment.

There are a lot more elements to creating a good suit but as long as you have these basics, your custom suit design will always come out great, especially with the help of a tailor. Remember that although there are certain rules you should always follow when designing a custom suit, the suit is yours and it should always compliment your style and personality, a good tailor will understand that.