Contact My Custom Tailors

What are the construction specifications for your shirts?

We stock high-end pure cottons, broadcloth, pinpoints, end-on-ends, twill and cheesecloth, in-blend cottons, cotton polys, oxfords, chambray, silks and more. Most fabrics are 2 ply and above.
The fabrics are mostly sourced from Thailand, UK, France and Italy. Luxury shirt fabrics are found within the DELUXE COLLECTIONS and HERITAGE GOLD collections.
The mills we use may not be as well known, but the fabric quality is excellent. Our thread counts are all 2 ply and above.
We use smooth cotton, extra strong, non-shrink poly threads and high-tensile strength silk woven threads in the construction of our shirts.

Our quality of workmanship is comparable to the best there is. Stitch counts are 120 and above and all seams are double stitched. We incorporate elasticated collar buttons and extra generous shoulder seams. Our collars are double layered, top fused and include removable or permanent collar stays, depending on the style of collar.
The shirt cuffs are double layered and top fused. Barrel cuffs are convertible with an expandable button stance for ease of wearing a watch or bracelet.
At the back of the shirt, we incorporate single side-back pleats, double side-back pleats, box pleats, inverted box pleats and a plain no pleat yoke. Box pleats are the normal standard of production.
Our seams are double stitched packed seams so no interlock stitches are visible when rolling up the sleeves.
We use imitation Mother of Pearl Buttons as standard; real Mother of Pearl Buttons can be requested. Colored shirts have either imitation horn buttons or colored buttons that match. Button holes are hand sewn with interlocked machine stitches.

Other commonly asked questions about Style Specific Questions

1. What is the difference between inverse pleats and reverse pleats and how do they differ from standard pleats on pants?
2. What are Morning Pants?
3. What is a vent?
4. Do you make detachable collar dress shirts?
5. What is a Peak Lapel?
6. What is a Notch Lapel?
7. What is a button down collar?
8. What is the difference between a single breasted and a double breasted jacket?
9. What is a Sulptured Collar?
10. What is a split back on jackets?
11. What are inverted box pleats?
12. What is the difference between a Notch Lapel and a Peak Lapel?
13. What are Ticket Pockets?
14. What is a hidden button-down collar?
15. What style is best for me?
16. What is button stance?
17. What is a gorge?
18. What is a placket covered front?
19. What is a Bouttonnaire?
20. What is a Mandarin Collar, a Thai Collar, and an Oiental Collar?
21. Where does custom tailoring fit with traditional vs. modern styles?
22. Can I order deviations from styles that I like but want slightly different?
23. What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
24. What is the difference between English or British cut and Italian cut men´s suits?
25. What is an Ainsley Collar?
26. Can designer styles be replicated?
27. What is the difference between a Suit Jacket, a Blazer and a Sports Jacket ?